Rosebank: Life on the oil field at the centre of a political storm

When we landed by helicopter at Rosebank, this oil field was at the centre of a political storm - and set to be in the path of a real one.

We arrived on Wednesday morning, just a few hours after the UK government had granted consent for the production of gas from the Jackdaw field in the North Sea.

But already attention was shifting to this wild and windy patch of the North Atlantic – the next big decision for Energy Secretary Miatta Fahnbulleh.

Rosebank is bigger than Jackdaw, it would generate higher greenhouse gas emissions, and it could be far more lucrative for its owners, Adura and Ithaca.

Nicola Boyd loves her job on the Petrojarl Rosebank vessel

This summer, along with a camera crew, I travelled to Jackdaw, 150 miles east of Aberdeen.

Now we were the first journalists to visit Rosebank.

We came here - days before Storm Boelo arrived with strong winds and heavy rain - to scrutinise a controversial project which is at the heart of a national debate about climate change, energy policy and the economy.

But we also hoped for a rare glimpse into life offshore.

"It's good fun, it's interesting, every day can change," said Nicola Boyd, who runs the helideck, and greeted us as we struggled out of our lifejackets and survival suits.

Boyd has worked offshore for nearly a decade, including a year on Rosebank - where she spends two weeks at a time followed by three weeks' leave.

The Petrojarl Rosebank is moored in the North Atlantic waiting to see if production gets the go-ahead from the UK government

It's also a job that calls for steady legs and a strong stomach.

Unlike the fixed Jackdaw platform, this installation – 80 miles north west of Shetland – is a large ship, a floating production, storage and offloading vessel (FPSO) named the Petrojarl Rosebank.

It's been chartered by the field's owners from Aberdeen-based Altera and, during my 48 hours on board, it was constantly but gently rolling on the North Atlantic swell.

With the understatement typical of an Orkney islander, lead mechanical technician Ewan Leonard told me the winter weather could be "a bit of a challenge."

"Last week we had a 30m heave coming through," he said, referring to the swell, "so we'll probably suffer more of that as the winter goes on."

Altera CEO Chris Brett told me that in the industry the environment west of Shetland is considered "as harsh as you get anywhere in the world."

Whatever your view on that industry, the sheer scale of what humans have achieved in such conditions is impressive.

Ewan Leonard says the winter weather can be "a bit of a challenge"

The deep reserves of skill, ingenuity and engineering prowess among the 122 people on board are obvious.

The jobs are well-paid and, according to Ewan Leonard, the facilities are excellent.

"We have single-man cabins, there's good gym facilities, there's a lot of rec rooms here."

Douglas Hogge, a production supervisor in charge of a team responsible for the safe extraction of oil and gas, agrees.

"There's the gym, the sauna," he said, adding "you can obviously go and get some fresh air.

There's plenty of fresh air out there."

Food on board the ship was described as "fantastic"

"As you've seen yourself, the food is fantastic on board, so no complaints." added Leonard.

Everyone we spoke to agreed with that, praising the talented chefs who sent out all sorts of delicious dishes, from braised ox cheek to mackerel to pork loin, day and night.

As dusk gathers and the nightshift get ready for work with a strange breakfast of fillet steak and chocolate brownie pudding, the vessel begins to glow in the gloom.

It is a strange sight, the decks criss-crossed by a bewilderingly complex array of pipes, valves and bright yellow steelwork.

The ship is an array of pipes, valves and bright yellow steelwork

The ship doesn't move far, rotating around a fixed central point called the turret to face into the weather, making life a little easier for those on board.

If production is approved, oil and gas will be pumped up through the turret from wells in the field below, which contains an estimated 300m to 500m barrels, enough for perhaps 25 years.

"For myself and a lot of the guys, that would see us out to retirement," said Douglas Hogge.

Environmental campaigners strongly disagree.

They've been trying to stop Rosebank for years, with some success.